Where is the gtk theme stashed?

[Tom Horsley]

I was able to make the selection look like something that
was actually selected when the default theme changed
in fedora 13 by running gnome-appearance-properties
and modifying the selection color to match fedora 12's
default color.

I'm using my same home directory now in fedora 15, but
whatever gconf magic stashes that selection modification
is no longer being used by the fedora 15 gtk theme,
so I'm now back to this feeble barely noticeable selection
that looks a lot like other random highlights and doesn't
stand out as the actual selection.

I'd like to change the color back, but there is no
gnome-appearance-properties in fedora 15 anymore,
so I have no idea where to look to change it.

Anyone know?

Actually, I'd also love to get back the firefox 3
cursor it used when hovering over links. The big
black blocky finger in firefox 4 is pretty distracting.