Where did pulseaudio profile "off" go?

[Tom Horsley]

Once upon a time, when I'd run "gnome-control-center sound"
there would be a option to select profile "off" for some
sound devices, which basically meant that pulseaudio would
pretend it wasn't there, and I could use the alsa
device directly in mplayer (for example).

Sometime in the past few weeks, this seems to have stopped
working, and now the sound control center only has 1 choice
listed in the set of profiles for each device (and none of
the choices are "off").

What happened here? Where can I tell pulseaudio to leave the
SPDIF output alone?